This is a Well-Built, No-Frills Ale.

Crosswind Pale Ale is led by earthy, roasted grains in its taste and is countered by a punchy grapefruit flavour that brings with it a moderate bitterness. I also get hints of chocolate, light nuts and a tart note in the finish that reminds me of lemon seed. A medium body and carbonation, as well as a fairly resinous and earthy mouthfeel give way to a sharp, mineral-like aftertaste.

The packaging of Crosswind Pale Ale is predominantly a mocha colour with the image of a prop plane outfitted for water takeoff printed in yellow and red. The back of the can contains a list of ingredients and description of the beer. This information is on the sleeve of bottled six packs as well. You will also find a clearly stamped best before date.

Crosswind Pale Ale is a mellow offering that has a very English feel to it. The brewery’s beers tend to have distinct malt and mineral characteristics that really work well with the tart citrus flavours provided by the hops.

I’ve enjoyed this beer with fresh breads, grilled meat and poultry, and stews. You can find Crosswind Pale Ale in bottles at The Beer Store and in cans and 5 litre mini kegs at LCBO stores. You can also visit the brewery seven days a week for sampling or a tour.

Type: American Pale Ale
Country: Canada
Region: Ontario, Baysville
Brewery: Lake of Bays Brewing Company
Format Purchased: 473 mL / 6 x 341 mL
Price: $2.65 / $12.95
Alcohol Content: 5.0%

Your Deck is Calling.

The taste of Denison's Weissbier is very easygoing. Wheat, banana, yeast and bubblegum flavours lead to a tart, lemony and slightly earthy finish. Though the ale has a thin body and mild carbonation, yeast sparks on the tongue and the mouthfeel is rather creamy. The aftertaste carries a mild yeast flavour.

The can that houses Denison's Weissbier is primarily two tones of blue with gold accents. The white wordmark is below the brewery logo and printed on top of a large W, while the bottom is reminiscent of a checkered flag. You will find a list of ingredients and a statement from founding brewmaster Michael Hancock on the side and easily decoded freshness dating towards the top of the can.

Nothing about Denison's Weissbier really stands out, and that is probably why I like it so much. This is a very well-executed and refreshing hefeweizen that tastes as authentic as examples from lauded German breweries such as Erdinger, Ayinger and Weihenstephan.

I'm not normally much of a fan of the style, but I will certainly be keeping a supply of this beer on hand throughout the late spring and summer months. It pairs well with both sharp and creamy cheeses, salads, bratwurst and charcuterie.

Denison's Weissbier has been brewed since 1990 and can now be found on tap at finer licensees and listed at over 100 LCBO stores.

Type: Hefeweizen
Country: Canada
Region: Ontario, Toronto
Brewery: Denison's Brewing Company
Format Purchased: 473 mL
Price: $2.70
Alcohol Content: 5.3%

Leaf Me Out Of This

The taste of Molson Canadian Wheat is rather sweet and malt heavy. Burnt wheat, corn, earth, orange rind flavours lead to a dirty tasting finish with floral and metallic notes that poke through in the aftertaste. This beer is thin bodied and somewhat watery with a mild carbonation. There isn't much life on the tongue, but what's there is mainly syrupy and grainy.

The packaging of Molson Canadian Wheat is tan coloured with wheat imagery in brown below the wordmark and the familiar red leaf logo above. You will find a brief description of the beer and bottle specific pouring instructions on the back, along with coded freshness dating.

I’m not sure what I was supposed to be drinking in Molson Canadian Wheat. Adding wheat to a watered down, corn-based adjunct lager sounds like a bad idea on paper and in practice it most certainly is. Sometimes I wonder who beers like this are targeted towards or how they make it to market at all.

An average Rickard’s or Keith’s White, Hoegaarden or even Shock Top drinker probably won't like it and based on my own sampling of Molson Canadian drinkers, they will just think it tastes funny.

In case you're curious, you can find Molson Canadian Wheat in bottles and cans at The Beer Store, while the LCBO stocks cans exclusively. It is also distributed nationally. The only pairing I can recommend is a glass of water to rinse your mouth with.

Type: American Adjunct Lager
Country: Canada
Region: -
Brewery: Molson Coors Canada
Format Purchased: 4.35 mL
Price: $2.35
Alcohol Content: 4.5%

Brian Wilson established Highlander Brew Co. in 2009 using a long time appreciation of beer and the severance package he received after being laid off from his position with a large financial firm along with 20000 of his colleagues and relocating his family to northern Ontario.

After receiving approval to set up shop from the AGCO and the South River town council, Brian and his wife Jennifer spent 11 months building the brewery, doing everything from construction and electrical work to the plumbing necessary for the operation themselves, all while managing a household with four children.

They were producing a single beer, the aforementioned Scottish Ale for three years. “Scottish Ale? Beer geeks will argue it isn’t really a style but I brew it and I can call it whatever the hell I want!” quips Wilson.

Dwayne Wanner and Bernie Liehs came into the fold as co-owners in 2011, bringing with them experience in automation and packaging. When Jennifer decided to pursue other interests, they needed some extra help around the brewery and hired Pat Serafini to assist with cellaring in February 2012. “Good thing he caught on quick as he had zero experience... save drinking Highlander of course.”

Though they have a small team, Highlander can currently produce roughly 16000 litres of beer a month, even with Brian regularly travelling the highways of northern Ontario to make deliveries.

Distribution became a little easier for Highlander recently when they opted to join the Ontario Craft Brewers Association. That not only allowed Highlander to see their products go from being listed in 32 LCBO stores to over 100 and exposed the beer to the lucrative markets of southern Ontario and the Ottawa area, but the association also helps secure tax savings for breweries based on hectolitres produced.

The beers that Highlander brews all have very rich malt bases and a distinct amount of care clearly goes into them. “It's the life of beer!” says Wilson. “I really appreciate the complexity of malt and how it can impact the overall flavour profile. Trends are showing hop heavy beers...It can easily get out of control. I feel balance is so very important.”

Blacksmith Smoked Porter (left) and Twisted Spruce Ale Bottles

The new specialty beers Brian and his team are producing are no exception and despite the proud Scot not hailing from the area, Blacksmith Smoked Porter and Twisted Spruce Ale both remind me (a native of North Bay, roughly an hour from South River) of the region I grew up in.

Blacksmith Smoked Porter (6.5%) is almost opaque black, with faint ruby coloured tinges visible when held towards light. The light tan head is rather frothy and leaves a few streaks of lace before settling as a thin collar. Aromas of dark fruit, chocolate, coffee, tobacco and damp wood come through, especially as the ale warms.

The taste is very malt forward with flavours of roasted grain, chocolate and cherry accented by an assertive bitterness as well as wood and smoke notes that become noticeable in the finish. Blacksmith Smoked Porter is full-bodied, earthy and grainy with mild carbonation and oiliness. The aftertaste has grain and coffee notes.

This is a very well-rounded porter that really showcases its dark malts. The beechwood character adds a mellow warmth that would make this beer a great choice for early spring or fall. I paired it with beef stew and fresh bread.

Twisted Spruce Ale (right) is Unique and Blacksmith Smoked Porter is Quite Malty

Twisted Spruce Ale (5.4%) has a light amber colour reminiscent of honey and a loose white head that hangs on as a thin cap. Made using spruce tips harvested near the brewery, this ale’s smell is actually quite yeast heavy with caramel and freshly cut grain tones behind.

The taste of Twisted Spruce Ale finds a fine balance between sharp, bitter and sweet flavours. Caramel, lemon peel, yeast, pepper, spruce oil and grassy hop flavours co-mingle quite well. The ale has a medium body and carbonation with the mouthfeel exhibiting both grainy and oily qualities. The finish is fairly dry with the spruce flavour lingering in the aftertaste.

Twisted Spruce Ale is not what I was expecting at all, is very different from anything else I’ve tried from Ontario and is in stark contrast to the tree-like qualities of something like Garrison Spruce Beer. It harnesses qualities from saisons, maibocks and Belgian golden ales, has distinct dry, bitter and oily properties from the spruce tips and far more taste than its ABV would suggest. I really enjoyed Twisted Spruce Ale all on its own, though light fish or sharp cheese would be good pairing choices.

Twisted Spruce Ale was accepted for listing by the LCBO and 650 mL bottles could hit shelves as soon as May 2013. I encourage you to try it if and when you get the chance or stop by the brewery if you happen to be driving through South River. Highlander Brew Co. beers are also on tap at select licensees and their signature Scottish Ale is  moving to the 650 mL format, which is preferred by the LCBO over 500 mL bottles.

I would like to thank Highlander Brew Co. for providing me bottles of both Twisted Spruce Ale and Blacksmith Smoked Porter for evaluation and directly to Brian Wilson for taking the time to answer my questions for this article.

Toasted Grains Anchor the Taste of Little Scrapper IPA

The toasted malts anchor the taste of Little Scrapper IPA from beginning to end as well, accented by juicy pineapple, lemon and mango flavours, as well as a hint of brewed black tea. This ale is easily quaffed, with a medium body, low carbonation, light oiliness and grainy warmth. There's just enough bitterness to please a hop head in the finish that lingers through the aftertaste and is joined there by a slightly salty tone.

The packaging of Little Scrapper IPA is a pea green colour, with the name appearing as though it were handwritten with a black Sharpie, the brewery logo and a small image of a boxing glove printed in burgundy. There is a minimal description of the beer on the bottle, while the case has a more in depth one, serving and pairing suggestions and a sticker indicating a production date.

I obtained Little Scrapper IPA through a consignment order placed via e-mail with Keep6 Imports of Toronto, Ontario. It took about two weeks for a case of the beer to be delivered to my local LCBO store from the time I paid for it using PayPal.

The whole process was easy and painless, though I was disappointed to find copious amounts of packing tape holding four six packs together without any buffering cardboard. I don't know if it's Keep6 or the LCBO that does this, but they could have at least turned the front of the sixers inward to prevent marring of the packaging.

Little Scrapper IPA delivers a lovely toasted grain character that is aided, but not overwhelmed by a moderate (50 IBU) bitterness. It's relatively tame compared to many of the Ontario brewed offerings in the style, but it's certainly satisfying and a great pairing for curry, samosa, goat cheese, fish and chips or spicy cured meats like Genoa salami, porketta or pepperoni.

Besides consignment orders from here in Ontario, you can regularly find Little Scrapper IPA in British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan and in its home province of Manitoba. After my experience with this beer, I'd be very interested in sampling some of the other Half Pints offerings.

Type: American IPA
Country: Canada
Region: Manitoba, Winnipeg
Brewery: Half Pints Brewing Company Limited
Format Purchased: 24 x 341 mL
Price: $79.90 (including HST)
Alcohol Content: 6.0%

This Lager is Great with a Light Lunch

The taste of Nickel Brook Premium Organic Lager is very earthy with a honey and caramel-sweetened, toasted grain flavour and distinct mineral note. It is rather heavy on the tongue with a mild carbonation. It comes off as creamy, though it’s also fairly viscose. The finish has a burntness and twang of yeast to it, while mild bitterness comes through in aftertaste.

The packaging of Nickel Brook Premium Organic Lager is brushed gold and green in colour, with the diamond-shaped Nickel Brook logo predominately displayed and accented with yellow and burgundy. You will find organic certification on the side and a best before date stamped on the bottom of the can.

Nickel Brook Premium Organic Lager is most definitely an acquired taste. Its earthy funk could easily put off those comfortable drinking macro-style lagers, though given a chance it has become a staple in my LCBO runs. It is very hearty and would make a good farmhand’s lunch beer, as it pairs quite well with crackers, hams, salamis and many types of cheese.

The brewery is open seven days a week for tours, tasting and retail purchases.

Type: American Pale Lager
Country: Canada
Region: Ontario, Burlington
Brewery: Better Bitters Brewing Company
Format Purchased: 473 mL
Price: $2.50
Alcohol Content: 5.0%

Beer Doesn't Get Much More Average than This

The taste is quite light, but has a definite malty sweetness, with a decent dryness to the finish that balances things out a bit. The lager is medium-bodied, moderately carbonated and a bit syrupy on the tongue. It’s refreshing and clean tasting for a moment, but dirty grain and corn tones take over the finish and aftertaste.

The packaging of Birra Moretti is primarily burgundy and white, with gold accents and the image of a man in a green suit and had enjoying a mug of beer. Slogans translate to “The Beer in Italy since 1859” and “Quality and Tradition”. The can includes a list of ingredients and has a vague best before date stamped on the bottom.

Birra Moretti has slightly more taste than its ABV would suggest, but this beer is the very definition of generic mediocrity, even amongst European lagers and has nothing that sets it apart. This beer is best served very cold and I’ve enjoyed it most with grilled chicken and alfredo dishes.

Here in Ontario, you can find Birra Moretti in bottles at The Beer Store and in cans at LCBO outlets. This beer is also distributed worldwide.

Type: European Pale Lager
Country: Italy
Region: Milan
Brewery: Heineken Italia S.p.A.
Format Purchased: 500 mL
Price: $2.45
Alcohol Content: 5.0%

I Find More Caramel in Here than Maple

I simply can’t find maple in the taste of Spring Maple Belgian Blonde Ale either. I do get caramel-sweetened malts, yeast, freshly cut grain and graham cracker flavours, accented by floral and peppery hop tones. This ale is medium bodied with rather mild carbonation. There is a slightly creamy and yeasty character in the mouth, but I find it very syrupy overall. The finish is almost cloying and thick with caramel, then the aftertaste is tart, bordering on sour with a lemon oil tone. It goes from one extreme to the other and leaves my teeth feeling sticky.

The bottle Spring Maple Belgian Blonde Ale is packaged in has a shield-shaped logo printed in brown, tan and white that bears the image of maple trees being tapped, as well as a tag around its neck that states the maple syrup used was provided by Ontario Maple Syrup and mentions that an upcoming release from Lake of Bays Brewing Company will be called Rock Cut Baysville Lager.

You will find a description of the beer, a list of ingredients and a sticker containing a best before date on the back of the bottle.

Spring Maple Belgian Blonde Ale has a bit too much going on and is far too syrupy for me. Though it is kind of interesting and possibly worth trying if you like sweeter beers, it’s also a bit bi-polar. If I were to tweak it, I’d definitely up the maple and possibly the yeast content while toning down the grassy hop notes.

I don’t think I would try to pair this beer with many meals, but I would consider trying it with vanilla ice cream, cheesecake or maybe an apple pie. Spring Maple Belgian Blonde Ale can be found listed at more than 100 LCBO stores beginning in mid-February, as well as at the brewery and select licensees around Ontario.

Type: Belgian Blonde Ale
Country: Canada
Region: Ontario, Baysville
Brewery: Lake of Bays Brewing Company
Format Purchased: 750 mL
Price: $8.95
Alcohol Content: 7.0%

This Beer is a Weiser Choice

Czechvar has a fairly crisp taste that is balanced between earth grains and syrupy malts and accented by a mild grape juice note. The pilsener is moderately carbonated and bodied with a faint yeasty tingle on the tongue. The finish is dry and earthy, while the aftertaste leaves a sharp, fruity and slightly metallic flavour behind.

There is a long, sordid story behind why the name Czechvar appears on North American packaging that I encourage you to research for yourself. Long story short, in its native Czech Republic, this beer is known as Budweiser Budvar. The can is white, with a red wordmark superimposed over a coat of arms and accents printed in gold. Freshness dating is clearly stamped on the bottom.

Czechvar is one of the truest examples of a Czech Pilsener available and though it may come off as a bit plain to many craft beer fans, it’s certainly a step above most of the other European lagers and pilseners you will find on LCBO and The Beer Store shelves. This beer is distributed worldwide and pairs well with hearty breads, sausages and sharp cheeses.

Type: Bohemian Pilsener / Czech Pilsener
Country: Czech Republic
Region: South Bohemian, České Budějovice
Brewery: Budějovický Budvar
Format Purchased: 500 mL
Price: $2.50
Alcohol Content: 5.0%

This Ale is an Easy Takedown

Strong Patrick has a very smooth taste. Honey-sweetened toasted grains create a muffin-like quality with chocolate, butter and berry accents contributing to encompassing warmth. Some citrus and pepper flavours are also noted, while a mellow yet sharp nibble of whiskey permeates the finish and lingers in the aftertaste. The ale is full-bodied with low carbonation. The mouthfeel is earthy and biscuit-like overall, but also has creamy and oily characteristics.

Like much of the art Jordan Bamforth creates for Beau’s products, Strong Patrick's uses earthy colours. The label has the layout of a professional wrestling poster and features an (presumably) Irish man in a luche libre mask adorned with a shamrock. As always, an included card strung around the bottle’s neck has a bilingual description of the beer and the back label has a list of ingredients and packaging date.

The wood and rye characteristics of Strong Patrick really shine without taking anything away from the ale that serves as the brew's base. It works nicely on its own as a sipper or with a plate of snacks and has gone quite well with hot chicken sandwiches and homemade baked beans in my experience as well.

Strong Patrick made its début in 2012 as entry number 18 in the Wild Oats Series. In 2013 it saw distribution to over 125 LCBO stores for the first time. At the time of writing, the beer was also on tap at licensees in southern and eastern Ontario or in bottles at the brewery and through the BYBO home delivery service.

If you’re wondering about the glass pictured in this review, they were given to the first 200 customers that ordered Strong Patrick through BYBO or stopped by the brewery to pick some up.

Type: Irish Red Ale
Country: Canada
Region: Ontario, Vankleek Hill
Brewery: Beau's All Natural Brewing Company
Format Purchased: 600 mL
Price: $7.85
Alcohol Content: 6.7%